By Linda Siegelman
Chama Mama is a terrific new restaurant that opened at the south end of Chelsea earlier this year featuring the food, wine and warm hospitality of Georgia. Not the state of Georgia, but the country.
The restaurant’s decor is bright and airy with light colors and natural wood. There is a beautiful bar at the front and an open kitchen at the back. The waiters are friendly, knowledgeable and happy to explain the basics of Georgian cuisine as they guide you through the menu.
Georgia is a former Soviet republic located at the pivotal intersection of Europe and Asia. Many of the culinary highlights of the country can be traced to its varied topography and the historic interplay of cultures that took place along the ancient Silk Route. It is home to the Caucasus Mountains and boasts beautiful beaches along the Black Sea. Georgian cuisine is unique but clearly incorporates influences from other Caucasian, Eastern European and Middle Eastern culinary traditions.
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Each provincial area of Georgia has its own distinct food specialties, but in general, the food is meat-centric with a broad range of vegetarian dishes as well as delicious cheese and wine. In fact, Georgian wine is known to be one of the oldest in the world and was traditionally produced underground in ancient clay pots which have been dated to the 8th Century BC.
Georgian food starts with bread and so should your order. It is an essential component of the meal. The bread is baked by placing elongated pieces of dough on the side of a tone which is a large clay oven, one of which can be seen in the open kitchen at the back of Chama Mama. Breads can be plain or filled with cheese, beans, eggs, butter or some combination thereof. Try the imeruli which is a round loaf with cheese inside or the adjaruli which is open-faced with cheese and egg. Chama Mama is a bakery as well as a restaurant, so racks of beautiful freshly-baked bread are produced throughout the day and fill the restaurant with wonderful aromas.
Next choose a selection of cold or hot small plates. Options include ekala, wild greens with a spicy walnut paste accompanied by a delicious side of cornbread; eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, peppers and basil; fragrantly roasted wild mushrooms; and stuffed grape leaves.
After sampling a few breads and small plates, consider sharing a couple of large plates / main courses. Two favorites are the megruli kharsho – braised short ribs with a delectable gravy and the minced pork and beef kebob rolled up in a lavash which is not on the regular menu but is often the Butcher’s Choice special of the day.
Chama Mama has an extensive Georgian wine list offered by the glass and by the bottle. The waiters are happy to make recommendations and offer a taste. Desserts include chocolate cake, cheesecake, baklava and an aptly named cloud of almonds which is puff pastry, pears and toasted almonds served with vanilla ice cream.
Chama Mama is located at 149 West 14th Street and is open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Stop in for lunch, dinner or an afternoon or evening drink and a snack. Bring along some family or friends as the food is meant to be shared. It is worth the trip.