By David J. Marzano
Manager, Adams Fine Clothing and Tuxedo
Not everything you read online is good advice. While there are many helpful tips out there, they might be drowned out by the overwhelming amount of misinformation coming from people with no expertise. Menswear is no different. In 2024, anyone can put on an ill-fitting suit, make a lot of content, get some followers, and call themselves a tailoring expert. But 90% of them are full of it. This is incredibly frustrating both for me as a professional clothier AND for you as a consumer. While they may be coming from a good place, their research is lacking and the views of these self-proclaimed “experts” are confusing and oxymoronic. So I implore you to log off Instagram, close Tiktok, and let your friendly neighborhood clothier break down how to master your suit fit in 2024.
If I’ve ever fit you for a suit you’ve probably heard me say, “Let’s start from the top.” Getting the top right is the most important fit aspect of a jacket. Everything else (sleeves, coat waist, seat, etc.) a good tailor can alter. So when you’re trying on a coat for the first time, focus on these four areas to determine if it’s a good fit.
Shoulders- The shoulders should hug your own and end right where your shoulders do naturally. A poorly fitted jacket will have the dreaded “shoulder divots” which are all too common on the red carpet.
Collar- The collar should gently hug your neck without any excessive gapping and lay cleanly across your back.
Chest- A tailor can reduce and sculpt the chest, but s/he cannot make it bigger. If your lapels are popping open like Bruce Banner mid-Hulk transformation, you might want to size up.
Length- A coat can be shortened slightly, but not lengthened. Like a good lawyer, you want your jacket to do one thing, cover your a$&.
Trousers are pretty simple, and if you nail these two aspects, your tailor can handle the rest.
Hips- Trousers that fit your hips properly should have pockets that lay clean without flaring out. There should be no excess/ drooping fabric on the sides or back.
Rise- The distance from your crotch to the top of your waistband. If the rise is too high, you’re getting a wedgie. If it is too low, then you’re MC Hammer. Both are inadvisable.
“BUT DAVE!” you might shout into these pages, “What if I constantly struggle with fit issues and feel like I can never find anything that works for me?” Well, dear readers, let’s dive into why becoming a “custom guy” is your best bet.
If you frequently encounter major fit problems, you essentially have two choices:
1. Buy an off-the-rack suit and face the daunting task of extensive alterations. This can end up costing you a fortune. Think about the money spent on the suit itself, plus all the tailoring required to make it fit.
2. Go custom! For less than the combined cost of an off-the-rack suit and its alterations, you can have a suit made to your unique measurements and preferences right from the start. Taking your specific fit issues into account, creating a unique pattern saves you—and your tailor—time and frustration.
In short, investing in a custom suit means you’ll get a perfect fit without the headache of constant adjustments. Plus, you’ll have a garment that truly reflects your style!
For more information, please stop into our store and see for yourself how good you can look.
Adams Fine Clothing & Tuxedo, 1275 Springfield Avenue in New Providence, New Jersey.
