By Chris Cree, MW
There is no doubt that today the Beaujolais region is on a tear, with dozens of talented young winemakers crafting delicious, soulful wines that can easily rival their pricier counterparts from just to the north in Burgundy. For centuries this region quietly produced wines from the Gamay grape, consumed locally and in bistros and restaurants from the Mediterranean to Paris.
In villages of the region, the completion of the harvest was celebrated with the barely fermented new wines or “nouveau” Beaujolais. In the 1970s, this celebration caught on outside the region, first in Paris, then around the world. By law the wines could not legally be released until the 3rd Thursday of November, so racing to become the first to sell them became all the rage. In the beginning, this was a huge boon to the growers. “Nouveau Beaujolais” short fermentation period allowed producers to clear their inventory and get paid in months rather than years. Nicknamed “Chateau cash flow”, this caused production to soar, but quality suffered.
When the bubble burst and the infatuation died off, it left a bad taste in the mouths of many consumers. But there were a handful of growers who never signed onto the Nouveau craze. They believed that traditional winemaking, quality over quantity, was essential and moved “back to nature” with organic, biodynamic, and natural grape growing and winemaking.
Today many more are following the trend. The top wines from these growers are highly sought after by connoisseurs and top Sommeliers and are now found on the lists of some of the best restaurants in the world.
There are several levels of Beaujolais production, mainly driven by the unique soils and terroir. Beaujolais AOC is a lighter, fruitier wine mainly from vineyards in the south. Moving north is the Beaujolais-Villages AOC, with steeper hills, higher altitude, and soils composed of sandstone, schists, granite, and some limestone. The wines are a step up in terms of the body while maintaining a fresh, fruit-driven nature.
The best sites are the hillside vineyards surrounding the ten “Cru Villages”, with more structure and complexity than simple Beaujolais – sometimes more reminiscent of their Pinot Noir based cousins to the north. The best can age for a decade or more, yet most are medium-bodied, accessible when they are young, and work with food much like Pinot Noir, pairing with poultry, game birds, grilled meaty fish, and lighter meats like pork or veal, burgers, steaks and chops. Lighter Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages are also great summer reds, served with a slight chill.
Prices range from $10 – $15 for simple Beaujolais, and from the high-teens to the mid $30s for the top producers and Crus, making them quite a bargain. With a series of excellent vintages on the market, it is an excellent time to explore a region on the move. Cheers!
Chris Cree is one of 57 Masters of Wine in the US and Founding Partner of the Cree Wine Company, a Wine Bar, Tasting Room, Event Space and Wine School in Hampton NJ. Visit at CreeWine.Com